Szervusz (Goodbye) to Hungary

As we approach the end of our bucket list trip to Budapest, the city and country of my heritage, Mike and I agree that it has truly been a life enriching experience.  Before I say more, take note that if you ever think about visiting Hungary but plan to stay on your diet, not eat the food or drink the wine I strongly suggest you just stay home!

We have been living in a Communist built apartment building likely from the 1940's among the locals in the south side of Buda which is on the west side of the Danube separating Buda from Pest (pronounced Pesht).  Our little one bedroom apartment has clearly been updated and renovated in recent times but with obvious telltale signs from the past. The front door of our apartment has three keyed locks including a sliding bar deadbolt which we were cautioned to fully engage on arrival and departure.  When you hear the term 'water closet' which I always thought was a British term, well now I know. The building code of the day required the toilet to be located in a separate location from any other room, hence it is literally a tiny closet, and no, there is no sink so you have to go to the 'bathroom' to wash your hands!!! The bathroom includes a tub, sink and a washing machine. Of course no dryers but racks to hang clothes to dry. A tiny kitchen allows for minimal preparation and cooking with a tiny apartment sized fridge, a clear signal why most people shop fresh and daily. Almost every major corner has a bakery and I've never seen so many people so thoroughly enjoying their sweet treats. And no, the population by and large is not overweight!

We found a little local pub type restaurant in our neighborhood which is a little gold mine in the side of a building. The food is gastronomically delightful and the prices decadently cheap!  We've been trying different meals almost daily unless we were enjoying the home cooked meals at one aunt's or another's home.

Less than a week after our arrival I received an email from hospital friends in Kingston who were going to be here in Budapest at the start of a river boat cruise. So off we go, hopping on the metro and poking here and there as we came up from underground where the 'Buddha Bar Hotel' might be! There it was, almost in plain sight leading to a lovely visit with 10 people like old home week. Needless to say, the original invitation referred to something about a glass of wine or two if we happened to connect! Given the time of day, we opted for a rain cheque and a Magyar reunion once we are all home again. Getting around the city feels as though we are in a giant amusement park. With our two week passes we can jump (well at this point I sort of waddle) onto subways, streetcars, trolleys and trains, most on the honor system and reach almost any point in this dense city within 15-20 minutes. Public transit comes by about every five minutes or so - no waiting in lines like at Disney - more of a speed pass everywhere you go. Underground you go, anywhere from the shallowest subway in the world at 18 feet, originally pulled by horses to 10 stories deep, intended for bomb shelters if necessary. There is also a natural semi circle to the city so to go from point A to point B, you find yourself getting on in Buda and getting off in Pest having travelled under the Danube in mere minutes.

Fascinating too when the undercover 'ticket checkers' board the transit and randomly ask to see passes. Apparently the fines are pretty hefty and Hungarians appear to be a very 'obedient people'. Young men offering up their metro seats for women, children and the elderly. Very little jaywalking, but rather politely wait until the little green person flashes before entering a roadway to cross and always on the 'zebra', those painted lines that offer protection to pedestrians.

We've seen most of the sights, enjoyed most of the sounds and found last weekend to be a delightful national event called Children's Day. Everywhere in the city, parks were packed with people with children of all ages undertaking activities of a much more traditional nature than one might find in North America. Parents and grandparents interacting with children in picnic like settings rather than putting them in jumping castles and watching them bob and bounce without any real personal or
physical interaction. It was heartwarming to watch, especially when it covered the city like a warm fuzzy blanket. They even had children (or at least children's voices) announcing the stops on the metro system!

Despite the current and past governments's efforts to rejuvenate the country, it is impossible to ignore the stark contrast between the sometimes centuries old Baroque and Turkish style buildings with their ornate styling and the concrete block buildings, often next door, built by the Communist party during its occupation until 1989. Unlike other large cities, probably mostly in North America I guess, there
are no single family homes in the city with streetscapes a mixture of architecture that becomes more and more a concrete jungle as you head out of downtown. Having said that, much credit is to be given for the green thumb or at least thought of greenery of some political power baron or another for the garden like spaces tucked in between and around these big box multi unit residences.

Last Sunday we attended mass at the 'Cave Church' that is literally carved into a hillside of rock.  The temperature remains an even 20 degrees given the thermal waters running in and around the area.
As I was contemplating this post, this morning, being Sunday, the church bells ringing brought a sense of  peace and melancholy at the same time. We have become so tolerant of so many other cultures, we have given up many of our own time honored traditions. I need not go on about that, you can likely think of a thing or two that fits that category. I believe in tolerance and acceptance yet feel strongly that it is not to be at the expense of others.  When our parents immigrated to Canada, many without the language, without material possessions, worked hard to fit in, learn the language, and formed local groups and organizations to keep their heritage alive, often offering a sense of familiarity in a country that likely seemed like another planet.

Today we attended mass at St. Stephen's Basilica, the main dome a mere 96 meters high, seating for 8,500 and an organ being played with such fervor, one wonders how the windows remain intact.  It's the closest to tears I've been and chilled right through with goose pumps at the sheer sound.

Mike has been an enormously good sport as we traversed the city with him not having any command of the language. He feels that he has witnessed the Hungarian culture which, to him is amazing with history lessons at almost every corner we turned. He's learned what people were like on the other side of the world, the causes they were fighting for or against and is amazed at what Hungarians had to deal with in the midst of the Germans and then the Russians.

As we wind up this amazing adventure, I've been pondering my emotional reactions to all that we've seen and done.  Somehow I thought it would be a deep, moving experience to finally set foot on the soil of my ancestors as I gained a sense of familiarity not to be found anywhere else. What seems to have occurred rather, is almost a calming effect that has rippled through my memories and childhood stories of what is was like to live here, how difficult it was to remain here in the midst of such tragic conflict and the reasons for leaving everything behind to find a new, better life.  And that I among countless others have been blessed with a life of safety and opportunity because of the sacrifices of others.  As I grow older, I gain an ever growing respect for the fact that I have absolutely no appreciation for what our parents and others had to go through, often at the prime of their lives.

My next post will find us back in Canada, back to a routine of sorts, and news of the rest of my cat scan that was done on May 9th. So until then, enjoy the spring weather, get outside and do something to commune with nature. Thank you for taking the time to hear about our travels. Aren't you glad I'm not offering a slide show?!?!?!?

Take care and God Bless,
Hugs
Liz
'Prayers wrapped in faith and sent with love are the best gifts we can receive'.